Spirituality, Science, & your Favorite Glass of Wine
An Introduction to: Grapes
Grapes, found in supermarkets worldwide, have been cherished for centuries, not just as a delicious snack but also for their medicinal benefits. Researchers have even drawn inspiration from nature, exploring unique substances like oyster blood as a potential antibiotic alternative, similar to how grapes have been used in traditional herbal medicine.
Grapes are packed with powerful compounds like flavonoids, tannins, and essential vitamins, and they offer a wealth of health benefits. Red grapes and their leaves are rich in anthocyanins, which help improve circulation and strengthen blood vessels. Grapes also support digestion with their natural acids, while their high vitamin content boosts immunity and promotes skin health. The minerals in grapes help maintain electrolyte balance and bone health, making them a truly versatile fruit for overall well-being.
In addition to these health-boosting properties, grape leaves have long been used in natural remedies for varicose veins, ulcers, and menstrual discomfort. Raisins soothe coughs, while grape seed extract aids in regulating blood pressure and supports liver function. Grapes themselves, native to southern Europe and western Asia, thrive in warm climates and are farmed primarily cultivated for wine production, with over 70% of global grapes going into viticulture.
From vine to wine–and everything in between, grapes are a cornerstone of health and tradition worldwide.
The Business of Grape Cultivation, Viticulture
Grape growing is no small feat—it's a full-time commitment requiring an entrepreneurial mindset. Viticulture involves everything from pest control and fertilization to monitoring fruit development, pruning, and deciding when to harvest. Viticulturists, who could be thought of as the scientists of the farming world, work closely with winemakers to ensure quality production.
In the U.S., American viticulture is a growing area with boundaries defined by the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB). Over half of all American viticulture areas are located in California, with others scattered across states like Arkansas, Missouri, and even Hawaii also have a stake in the industry, each with their unique growing conditions. This regional diversity allows for a variety of grape types and wine styles, contributing to the ever-growing reputation of American wines.
On the other side of the globe, in Spain, the number of female vineyard holders has steadily increased. In 2020, there were 20,051 women involved in grapevine ownership, marking a notable rise since 2009. These women are often drawn to underperforming vineyards, where they apply a combination of scientific expertise and a passionate commitment to the land to transform them into successful operations. Ascensión Robayna, a fourth-generation grape grower from Lanzarote, Canary Islands, highlights that grape growing is more than just about profit but about preserving culture, respecting the land, and focusing on long-term sustainability.
During my recent trip to Austria, I had the opportunity to attend a wine tour hosted by Haas&Haas Wein & Feinkost that discussed the country’s viticulture. where we learned about the country’s viticulture and the history that shaped it. Our guide shared the details of the 1985 Austrian wine scandal, a dark chapter in the industry where winemakers added diethylene glycol (DEG), a toxic antifreeze chemical, to enhance flavor and appearance. The scandal, which resulted in multiple deaths and recalls, severely impacted Austria’s wine industry. In response, stricter regulations were introduced to address food safety concerns, leading to major changes in how wine is produced in the country.
Since then, Austria has become a leader in sustainable and organic viticulture. Organic wine production in the country is governed by both EU regulations and additional national standards, ensuring a high level of environmental responsibility. Austrian vineyards are known for their significant percentage of organic cultivation, and the BIO AUSTRIA certification, which surpasses EU guidelines, includes stricter rules on copper usage, promotes biodiversity, and encourages the use of natural fertilizers. This comprehensive approach not only supports the health of the environment but also ensures the long-term vitality of the vineyards. Organic certification is renewed annually, offering transparency and guaranteeing that wineries maintain rigorous standards for both sustainability and quality.
A fun fact shared during the tour and further emphasized by the BIO AUSTRIA website is that wines bearing the red-white-red symbol on their bottles have passed the DAC’s thorough quality control process. This process includes chemical analysis and a tasting commission conducted by state-authorized wine tasters to ensure the highest standards of excellence. So, when you pick up a bottle with this symbol, you can be confident that you’re enjoying a wine that meets Austria's strictest quality measures.
Note: On the chance you ever find yourself in Vienna, Austria, make sure to visit Haas & Haas. Their wine selection and experience are top-notch. Oh, and while you’re there, grab a few sausages – I promise, they’re so good I’d die and come back just to finish the next one.How Global Warming Influences Wine Crops
I had the pleasure of attending my first wine tour Moore Brothers in Pennsauken, New Jersey. The tour showcased four European wines from Austria, Italy, Portugal, and France, all created by women winemakers. What truly stood out during the experience was how well-versed the family-owned company was in discussing the impact of environmental changes, particularly global warming, on their inventory and the vineyards they sourced from. They had deep knowledge of the struggles facing the wine industry, with many of the vineyards experiencing declining yields due to shifting climates.
According to the owner of Moore Brothers in Pennsauken, approximately one-third of vineyards worldwide are suffering from drastically reduced annual yields. With hotter summers, grapevines are struggling to retain the moisture necessary for healthy fruit development. Grapes are thawing earlier in the season and shriveling faster, affecting both quality and quantity. While global warming has introduced a number of challenges to wine production, some winemakers are turning to biodynamic practices in hopes of helping their plants adapt, though the evidence supporting biodynamics as a solution remains controversial.
Grapes are incredibly sensitive to changes in weather, much like delicate sugar cookies in the "Squid Game" challenge—one wrong move and everything can crack under pressure. Wine quality is heavily dependent on the climate, soil, and grape variety, so with temperatures rising, regions that currently grow certain wine varieties may no longer be suitable in the future. For example, by 2050, some wine-growing areas may need to shift 10 to 30 kilometers north to maintain optimal conditions. This could allow new areas, like Denmark or the Loire Valley, to become viable wine-growing regions, but it also risks losing the ideal conditions in current wine-growing areas.
In response to these shifts, regenerative viticulture is becoming increasingly popular. This approach focuses on restoring and enhancing the health of the soil, ecosystem, and biodiversity within vineyards.
Practices like cover cropping, composting, minimal tillage, and reducing chemical inputs aim to improve the long-term ecological balance of vineyards. One way to promote regenerative viticulture and assist in the fight against global warming in its harmful attack on wine manufacturers is by utilizing “Service Crops”. Service crops are plants that grow in vineyards not used for selling or harvesting directly, but to benefit the eco-system. The crops help improve soil quality, water management, and overall vineyard health without competing with grapevines for resources like water and nutrients.
However, service crops can also negatively impact grapevines if not properly managed. While these crops contribute to a healthier vineyard ecosystem by increasing organic matter and suppressing weeds, they compete with grapevines for essential resources like water, nutrients, and sunlight. In regions with limited resources, service crops can absorb too much moisture or nutrients, depriving grapevines of what they need for optimal growth. The challenge lies in finding the right balance as service crops can support grape production if carefully managed, but poor management or improper species selection may lead to competition that harms grape yield and quality.
TLDR: Service crops help the vineyard ecosystem overall, but if not carefully managed, they can compete with grapevines for essential resources, which might affect grape yield and quality.
Sustainability in the Wine Industry: Key Metrics
Sustainability is crucial for grape growers and winemakers, with top priorities including water and energy efficiency, pest management, waste management, and supply chain optimization. Traceability is also vital for understanding the social and ecological impact of wine choices.
The Sustainable Wine Assessment Tool (SWAT) is a framework designed to evaluate sustainability in the wine industry, focusing on environmental, social, and governance (ESG) aspects. It uses a hierarchical approach with 243 indicators categorized into themes and dimensions. These indicators are grouped into Core Sustainability Indicators (CSI), Key Sustainability Indicators (KSI), and Management Practices Indicators (MPI), providing a comprehensive and adaptable way to assess performance. The tool generates an ESG score (0–100), categorizing organizations into three sustainability levels: unsustainable, sustainable with some restraints, or fully sustainable.
SWAT was validated through a hypothetical case study in the Portuguese wine sector, assessing its indicators for accuracy and alignment with regulatory and industry benchmarks. The findings highlighted the tool's effectiveness in identifying sustainability strengths and weaknesses, such as fair pricing, community engagement, carbon reduction, and inclusivity. However, areas like predictive capability, stakeholder engagement, and supplier collaboration need improvement.
Overall, SWAT is a valuable tool for guiding the wine industry toward sustainability, aligning with global goals like the European Green Deal and Sustainable Development Goals. It offers clear, actionable insights while emphasizing adaptability to various contexts, making it a robust resource for sustainability monitoring and decision-making.
Using the Stars to Harvest Grapes
Call it witchy woo-woo, but one thing is certain: there’s evidence that biodynamic farming promotes healthier, more resilient crops. And the funny thing? It works.
Astrology’s influence goes beyond personal belief systems. Astrology shapes things from architectural designs to agricultural practices. For instance, farmers have long aligned their planting and harvesting with celestial movements, believing that the stars and planets affect crop growth. Sajah Popham, in Evolutionary Herbalism, delves into how harvesting plants based on astrological seasons can enhance their medicinal properties. Likewise, the Moore Brothers’ suppliers have embraced soil-refarming techniques to boost crop vitality.
Biodynamic farming in winemaking integrates lunar cycles into agricultural practices to optimize crop growth and health. Developed by Maria Thun in the 1960s, the biodynamic calendar tracks the moon’s movement through twelve zodiac constellations, each associated with one of the four elements: earth, water, air, and fire. These elements guide the planting, cultivation, and harvesting processes. For example, pruning is best done when the moon is waning to avoid damaging the vines, while harvesting is optimized during specific moon phases to bring out the crop’s full potential.
Biodynamic viticulture takes this philosophy a step further by aligning farming tasks with lunar phases to enhance plant vitality. The waxing and waning of the moon affects the water in plant root systems, influencing processes like osmosis. By timing activities like pruning, planting, and harvesting according to the lunar calendar, farmers can improve both crop quality and yield. For example, pruning during a waxing moon, when the sap is rising, can damage the plant by disrupting its natural processes.
This approach is grounded in the belief that a balanced ecosystem, with minimal interference, fosters healthier, more vibrant crops. In biodynamic farming, organic preparations made from animal manure, herbs, and minerals are used to enrich the soil and support biodiversity. The practice avoids synthetic chemicals and GMOs, focusing instead on sustainable, organic methods. It works in harmony with the earth’s natural rhythms and the cosmos, reflecting a holistic approach to agriculture.
The biodynamic calendar also plays a role in winemaking. Phases of the moon guide activities like racking, which is the process of transferring wine from one vessel to another. During the waning moon, racking helps preserve aromas, while during the waxing moon, it enhances the wine’s exposure to oxygen, aiding its development. For wine lovers, the timing of opening a bottle can even influence the tasting experience, as certain lunar phases highlight fruity or floral notes, creating a unique sensory connection to the cosmos.
For skeptics, it’s not as far-fetched as it may seem. Observable effects back the idea that lunar and planetary influences affect plant growth. Studies have shown that moon phases impact water retention and plant hydration, aligning with what biodynamic farming observes. Far from dismissing science, this approach adds an extra layer of empirical knowledge to traditional agricultural techniques.
So, the next time you unwind with a glass of wine, take a moment to appreciate the magic hidden in the aroma and the efforts behind delivering those well-juiced grapes—grown in harmony with an ever-changing climate.
